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(ALMOST)
ALL OVER
FRANCE IN
JULY 2007
20
days
of holiday
travel.








Across
Burgundy to see Vercingetorix at
Alise Ste Reine
South to
Lyon and Vennissieux
Further
south for sunshine and
the Roman Pont du Gard in Provence
To
Roman Nîmes and west along the
D999 to Le Vigan in the
Cévennes
To the
Cirque de Navacelles and Le Caylar
North to
Doussard and Annecy
East into
the Alps - Seez and
Tignes to watch a stage of the
Tour de France.
Southwest
to the Lot & Dordogne
Out to the
Atlantic and the Île de Ré
North to
Brittany - Carnac and
Quiberon
and back
via
Le Bec Hellouin in Normandy.
















Day 1. 4th July - From home to Dover
- 353 miles








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We pulled into
"historic Warwick" and saw that here a man might be honoured for
bashing men's brains in.
Hanging out on a street corner
was a
chap with a very bad haircut.

We'd chosen the 10 miles longer toll-free route
from home and travelled anticlockwise around London. As if a big wave had come
up behind us we whooshed on down to Dover with that
it's-getting-increasingly-hard-to-slow-down feeling which for several weeks I'd
been eagerly anticipating. |
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From an Italian restaurant smelling of
generations of cigarette smoke we bought a pizza and ate it at our overnight
stopping place, the Dover Patrol monument
at the very far end of Granville Road.
A good spot. A German motorhome
was already there. |
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More vans arrived later. (I'd have been very
keen on the Mercedes had it not been festooned with deep rusty blisters).
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At who-knows-what-time during the night
my anxious
navigator woke me to say that the wind had got up and it was rocking the van. With the
roof still raised I drove us a little way down the track and into the shelter of
a big old briar patch. |
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5 July - Dover to Tonnerre
- 331 miles









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By 5am we were rolling down to the port to catch the 6am crossing to
Dunkerque.
Floor it, Mr Ferryman! |
|

Dawn is a good time to start an adventure.

Better still if at sunrise there's some sun to
be seen.

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I'd done
slightly more planning than usual and we were on our way to Tonnerre, not for
any good reason other than that the town had a campsite from which next morning
we could travel to see Vercingetorix.
Our scribbled
notes read, "Heavy rain, Bar sur Seine, (dereliction, population, war),
asparagus fields" and "Too many Jean Marie Le Pen posters everywhere" (in caps).
What a very
unattractive man he is in every way.
We had at first
mistaken the unsightly asparagus for some cereal crop overdue for harvesting. Now I
read that in London's Garrick club there was once allegedly a notice which read,
"During the asparagus season members are requested not to relieve themselves
into the umbrella stand". Presumably such behaviour was considered acceptable
outside the asparagus season. |
|

The
humorously named municipal
site,
Camping La Cascade at Tonnerre is just fine.
| |
We strolled a little way along the river and saw pond
skaters in profusion and walnuts which, though far from
ripe, had decided to fall to the ground. I suppose I was very tired because I was
much amused by my own singing of, "I'll call you Jaguar, if I may be so bold".
Why, I don't know.
Leaving Jo in the van I walked into the town
along the very navigable
Burgogne (Burgundy)
Canal. An old irrigation canal ran alongside it. On the main road I passed a
high-walled garden with a much neglected orchard where neglected hazel,
or perhaps filbert trees urged themselves upward amongst neglected
walnuts, pears, apples, cherries and vines.
The town seemed to me
to be tired and tatty,
but not uninteresting. It
has a much repaired but very complete
Hôtel-Dieu (hospital), built in 1293 by
Marguerite de Bourgogne. It reminded me of the tithe barn at
Hartpury near where I once lived in Gloucestershire. There was some
extra curiosity value for us because for many years the senior sister
on Jo's ward was a Marjorie Burgoyne (and a God-fearing woman she is
too). A town drunk was asleep in the well maintained medieval-style
garden at the side of the Hôtel.
Roofscape-orama.
Half-timbered building isn't the norm in
this area. Here on the first floor the front elevation is
nothing more than the timber frame with modern glazing quite subtly inserted behind
it. I was reminded of Brecon's Noyadd Rhulen where the
interior walls had been stripped back to the studding.
Local residents (for the time
being), on a once very prosperous but now miserably scruffy farm. Apart
from the two canals, two branches of the same river, a main and a lesser road
and a railway line run along the shallow valley.
This is an unrepresentatively pretty view of Tonnerre. |
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