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(ALMOST) ALL OVER FRANCE IN JULY 2007

 

20 days of holiday travel.

 

 

Across Burgundy to see Vercingetorix at Alise Ste Reine

South to Lyon and Vennissieux

Further south for sunshine and the Roman Pont du Gard in Provence

To Roman Nîmes and west along the D999 to Le Vigan in the Cévennes

To the Cirque de Navacelles and Le Caylar

North to Doussard and Annecy

East into the Alps - Seez and Tignes to watch a stage of the Tour de France.

Southwest to the Lot & Dordogne

Out to the Atlantic and the Île de Ré

North to Brittany - Carnac and Quiberon

and back via Le Bec Hellouin in Normandy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 1. 4th July - From home to Dover - 353 miles

 

 

 

 

 

    We pulled into "historic Warwick" and saw that here a man might be honoured for

bashing men's brains in. Warwick boxer Hanging out on a street corner Warwick half timber

was a chap with a very bad haircut. Warwick wooden haircut

    We'd chosen the 10 miles longer toll-free route from home and travelled anticlockwise around London. As if a big wave had come up behind us we whooshed on down to Dover with that it's-getting-increasingly-hard-to-slow-down feeling which for several weeks I'd been eagerly anticipating.

 

 

 

   

 

 

Dover castle

 

From an Italian restaurant smelling of generations of cigarette smoke we bought a pizza and ate it at our overnight stopping place, the Dover Patrol monument Dover Patrol Monument at the very far end of Granville Road.

A good spot. A German motorhome was already there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dover Patrol Monument

More vans arrived later. (I'd have been very keen on the Mercedes had it not been festooned with deep rusty blisters).

   

  At who-knows-what-time during the night my anxious navigator woke me to say that the wind had got up and it was rocking the van. With the roof still raised I drove us a little way down the track and into the shelter of a big old briar patch.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

5 July  - Dover to Tonnerre - 331 miles

 

 

 

 

 

Dover Patrol Monument

 

By 5am we were rolling down to the port to catch the 6am crossing to Dunkerque. Floor it, Mr Ferryman!

 

 

 

 

 

 

White cliffs sunrise

Dawn is a good time to start an adventure.

 

 

 

 

White cliffs sunrise

Better still if at sunrise there's some sun to be seen.

 

 

 

 

 

Norfolkline

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

    I'd done slightly more planning than usual and we were on our way to Tonnerre, not for any good reason other than that the town had a campsite from which next morning we could travel to see Vercingetorix.

    Our scribbled notes read, "Heavy rain, Bar sur Seine, (dereliction, population, war), asparagus fields" and "Too many Jean Marie Le Pen posters everywhere" (in caps). What a very unattractive man he is in every way.

    We had at first mistaken the unsightly asparagus for some cereal crop overdue for harvesting. Now I read that in London's Garrick club there was once allegedly a notice which read, "During the asparagus season members are requested not to relieve themselves into the umbrella stand". Presumably such behaviour was considered acceptable outside the asparagus season.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Camping La Cascade at Tonnerre

The humorously named municipal site, Camping La Cascade at Tonnerre is just fine.

 

 

 

 

 
  Camping La Cascade at Tonnerre We strolled a little way along the river and saw pond skaters in profusion and walnuts which, though far from ripe, had decided to fall to the ground. I suppose I was very tired because I was much amused by my own singing of, "I'll call you Jaguar, if I may be so bold".

Why, I don't know.

Leaving Jo in the van I walked into the town along the very navigable Burgundy Canal Tonnerre Burgogne (Burgundy) Canal. An old irrigation canal ran alongside it. On the main road I passed a high-walled garden with a much neglected orchard where neglected hazel, or perhaps filbert trees urged themselves upward amongst neglected walnuts, pears, apples, cherries and vines.

The town seemed to me to be tired and tatty, but not uninteresting. It has a much repaired but very complete Hôtel-Dieu  (hospital), built in 1293 by Marguerite de Bourgogne. It reminded me of the tithe barn at Hartpury near where I once lived in Gloucestershire. There was some extra curiosity value for us because for many years the senior sister on Jo's ward was a Marjorie Burgoyne (and a God-fearing woman she is too). A town drunk was asleep in the well maintained medieval-style garden at the side of the Hôtel.

Roofscape-orama.

Tonnerre half timber Half-timbered building isn't the norm in this area. Here on the first floor the front elevation is nothing more than the timber frame with modern glazing quite subtly inserted behind it. I was reminded of Brecon's Noyadd Rhulen where the interior walls had been stripped back to the studding.  

Local residents (for the time being), on a once very prosperous but now miserably scruffy farm. Apart from the two canals, two branches of the same river, a main and a lesser road and a railway line run along the shallow valley. 

Tonnerre This is an unrepresentatively pretty view of Tonnerre.

 

 

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